When
it comes to saddle
fit, there are
as many theories
about what is correct,
as there are types
of saddles. The important
thing to remember
is that there are
horses and saddles
of all shapes and
dimensions and you
need to make sure
that the saddle that
you are using works
for your horse. Let’s
focus
this discussion on
the ideal fit for
a quarter horse that
is in a performance
sport. With the increasing
popularity of the “good
old stocky quarter
horse,” as
well as the “appendix-type
quarter horse” there
is more of a demand
for saddles that
fit these well-muscled
critters. National
Roper’s Supply
has teamed up with
the country’s
top tree makers,
saddle makers, breeders
and competitors to
design and build
saddles that suit
the needs of today’s
competitive quarter
horses. Out of all
the research and
test rides, the following
conclusions evolved
that apply to all
types of saddles – regardless
of the discipline.
Everyone has heard
the term Quarter
horse bars, semi-quarter
horse bars, full
quarter horse bars,
etc. If you are
riding a “Quarter
Horse,” these
should fit – right?
Not
necessarily. The
problem is the actual
gullet height, width
and bar spread that
go along with these
measurement terms
vary. It is equivalent
to buying a pair
of tennis shoes.
If you try on a pair
of size 8 in Nike,
Reebok, New Balance
and Adidas, they
will all fit differently,
yet they are all
marked with the same
size. The same effect
happens with different
saddle trees. The
dimensions of a tree
depend on who made
it and what the intended
purpose is. All are
made correctly, for
their intended purpose
and type of horse.
Most do not fit all
horses. See Figure
a for
some average outlines
of the three basic
categories of “quarter
horse bars.” Most
quarter horses generally
fall into the regular
quarter horse to
full quarter horse
bar category. However,
as mentioned above,
the actual dimensions
for each category
can vary tremendously.
To simplify the whole
picture for you,
NRS has done the
legwork and test
rides so that you
can enjoy your horse
and maximize performance,
without the worry
and time involved
in comparing and
testing saddles.
The following are
some basic points
that became evident
throughout all tests
with performance
quarter horses:
- The lower, “mutton” withers
of many of these
horses is generally
coupled with heavy
muscling at the
back edge
of the scapula,
on each side of
the base of the
withers.
- These horse’s
backs are generally
shorter than their
relatives with
more Thoroughbred
blood.
- The entire saddle
must be positioned
behind the edge
of the scapula
to allow for more
freedom of movement
of the shoulder
without impeding
the flexion of
the large muscles
on either side
of the withers.
- Don’t
over pad if your
saddle fits properly.
- Weight and age
changes in your
horse can affect
saddle fit dramatically.
Point
#1: Lower wider
withers with heavily
muscled shoulders.
For most people
the first thought
is naturally to
find a saddle tree
that is a bit wider
in the gullet (see
Figure
b). However,
more importantly,
the bar angle and
bar
spread need to be
adjusted so that
the bars of the tree
will rest flat, against
the horse. If the
bar angle is too
steep, even if
the gullet is widened,
the bars will still
sit too vertically
on the horse’s
back and press
into the horse from
the edges of the
bar. Most of the
time the bar angle
being flattened and
the bar spread increased,
will make more
improvement in fit
than widening the
gullet. The gullet
height is not as
important with
these horses, as
their withers tend
to be low enough
not to interfere.
As always, when choosing
a roping saddle,
it is important to
maintain the lowest
possible center
of pull on the horn
to reduce torque
on the horse’s
withers. The concavity
of the burr of
the bar is also
important. Since
these horses are
so heavily muscled,
the bar needs to
be flatter in the
burr area to allow
room for the larger
muscle mass. If
the burr area is
too rounded, it
will press into
the shoulder muscles
causing pinching
and pain, even
if the bar
is at the correct
angle.
Point #2: Shorter
backs.
The length depends
on the horse, but
because the saddle
ha to sit behind
the muscle mass
in the shoulder
area, it pushes
everything back.
When the horse
rounds his back
up to stop or bend,
the skirts of a
long saddle, and
in some cases 
the
tree, can dig into
the kidney area
as well as interfere
with the hip action.
Most of the time,
making the skirts
shorter, or rounded
can fix this problem.
The length of the
bars of the tree
is usually fine,
unless the seat
size of the saddle
gets to the 16″+
range. See Figure
c. The more
you can keep a
saddle from interfering
with the movement
of the horse’s
joints, the more
comfortably he
can perform.
Point #3: Saddle
position.
Most often saddles
are placed and
tightened too far
forward on the
horse’s
shoulders. When
you first place the
pads and saddle,
it is a good idea
to have them closer
to the horse’s
head than they will
end up, and then
slide it all back
into place, with
the direction of
the hair. The
saddle, if not
over-padded and
properly fitted,
will generally
seat itself in
the appropriate
position. However,
with the large
muscle
mass in the shoulder
area on some horses,
it
is sometimes hard
to determine proper
saddle position.
To check, on
ce
the saddle pads
and saddle are
placed, slide your
hand against the
horse, under everything,
along the shoulder blade.
You should feel the
back edge of the
scapula (shoulder
blade) in front of
the front concho
on your saddle. If
you can’t feel
it, walk your horse
a couple of steps
with your hand
under there. If your
hand gets pinched,
even before the cinch
has been tightened,
your saddle is
definitely not fitting
properly! Next, you
want to make sure
that the front edge
of the cinch is at
least 1″-2″ behind
the horse’s
elbow, when he
is standing square
(see Figure
d).
This allows for
the horse to move
his foreleg fully
without rubbing
the cinch.
In many cases,
simply repositioning
the saddle will
alleviate fit problems.
Point
#4: Don’t
over-pad if the saddle
fits properly.
Many people with
stockier-type horses
have problems with
saddles rolling and
not staying in place.
It is important not
to over pad your
horse, if the saddle
fits properly. Only
if the saddle is
pinching and you
have not found a
different, better
fitting one, should
you protect the horse’s
back with extra padding.
The ideal total pad
thickness is 3/4″-
1″ (see Figure
e). Find a good
quality, high-density
pad that will conform
to your horse’s
back and absorb
the shock. The amount
of padding is critical
to the fit of a saddle.
Adding or removing
even
a single layer,
can alter the fit
dramatically in either
direction.
Point
#5: Horse weight
and age changes affect
the fit of a saddle.
Every 50 pounds a
horse gains or loses
will alter the fit
of the saddle. This
is true for muscle
or fat. As the seasons
change, it is important
to monitor your horse’s
muscling, weight
and hair coat thickness,
and adjust your pads
accordingly. Summer
pads will probably
not be the same thickness
or quantity as those
used in the winter.
In addition, as your
horse matures, his
back will change
shape. A young horse
may have a round
narrow back that
is hard to keep a
saddle on. As the
horse gets older,
his back will gain
more definition with
more prominent withers,
more muscle around
the
shoulder area and
more dip along the
spine. In later years,
hollows form just
behind the shoulder
blades. Again, you can use the same
properly
proportioned
saddle during most
of these
life stages, with
proper padding. A
dropped rigging or
dropped D-rings on
a saddle can be helpful
in holding a correctly
fitting saddle in
place.
In
conclusion…
As with everything,
moderation and flexibility
are the key. If you
can’t afford
a custom tree for
each of your horses,
the next best thing
is to find a well-made,
saddle that will
fit 95%+ of your
horses and fine tune
with padding. With
so many fine saddle
makers, it is often
difficult to choose.
NRS has listened
to its customers
and with the help
of experts, now offers
an entire saddle
line that will fit
your horse. For all
of you struggling
for improved performance
with your beloved
quarter horses and
your saddles, please
consider a saddle
that is designed
with you in mind.
The process doesn’t
have to be complicated
and you don’t
have to wait many
months or years to
have a custom saddle
made for your equine
friend. There are
many well thought
out and well constructed
models on the market
today that are in
stock and ready to
ride.
Choose
the perfect saddle
today!
